Finished Project: Swing Tank Dress

Hi!

It's been almost a year since my last blog post. If you've been following along on Instagram, though, you know I've still been sewing and thrifting and drooling over vintage patterns since then.

Sunglasses: Target
Necklace: Anna Joyce
Sandals: Nisolo

I'm here today to document an easy, satisfying pattern mash-up I made recently. It's a twofer! All you need is the free Lago Tank (by Itch to Stitch) and the Ebony Dress (by Closet Case), which I happened to have received last year as a Christmas present.

From the shoulder seam to the armpit, this is the Lago Tank, and from the start of the side seam (just under the armpit) to the hem, it's a lengthened Ebony tunic. Well, I say "hem" but I did not bother hemming this -- just didn't feel like dealing with it, so I chopped it to the length I wanted once I was done with the very quick construction.

The fabric is a medium weight, stretchy performance/athletic knit, which would be good for leggings, but which I'd bought to make workout tops from FabricMart who knows how long ago (have I mentioned my ridiculous fabric stash?).  I sewed this up on my regular sewing machine, using a ball point needle, a zig-zag stitch for the seams, and a lengthened straight stitch to top stitch the neckline and armhole bands after they were inserted, since the openings are wide enough to not need to stretch a huge amount. I learned this technique while making the Nettie Bodysuit a while ago, and I find I like the look better than top stitching a tiny zig-zag for those parts.

I'm really loving wearing this dress! The swingy-factor makes this one fun to twirl in and super easy to wear (dress up or down! eat a huge meal! sit in a car or at your desk for hours!). It pairs conveniently well with my Blackwood Cardigans, being sleeveless, and even when I wear it alone, the back shoulders don't cut in too much, so my bra doesn't show like it does on other, more pronounced racer-back style tanks. It is easy to wear to work, or wherever.

You could definitely come up with this style without the Ebony (or another swing dress/tunic) pattern involved, I just liked knowing the shape I was creating wasn't way off base!

Too Much of a Good Thing?

The first time I came across a Rifle Paper Co. product, I think I audibly gasped. Maybe I was at Paper Source, or a stationary store ...or was it Anthropologie? I loved the style instantly and I'm sure I thought something like "FINALLY!-- A brand whose aesthetic perfectly matches my tastes!" (yes, these are how my thoughts sound).

I think my first purchase was a set of "thank you" cards. It was several years ago, back when they were mainly doing stationary and paper products, and were just starting to dip their toes into other accessories, like phone cases and small zippered bags. 

After that, as soon as I (also finally) jumped on the iPhone train, I got a Rifle Paper Co. phone case, and I would get the odd compliment on it, from other fans of the brand, who sometimes weren't even aware that the product existed. "I love your Rifle phone case! Where did you get it?!" I think the brand was still kind of flying under the mainstream radar at that point?

Over the past several years, I've gradually accumulated RPC stationary, greeting cards, calendars, coasters, art prints, cosmetics bags, phone cases, and anything else I could reasonably get my hands on. I just found myself in love with everything Anna created and I wanted to sprinkle it everywhere in my life.

It felt like the designs added a clever, interesting, artistic touch to my style. Modern yet retro, with enticing color schemes and a dash (but not too much) of whimsy. I loved it!

Like most sewers, back when I was re-entering the sewing world, as an adult (um 8 years ago?), a significant issue for me was finding fabric that I actually wanted to wear -- it needed to be interesting and cute, but also appropriate for garments. Not quilting cotton. Exploring online, and occasionally at JoAnn's, I found some suitable fabrics here and there that helped somewhat quench my thirst for eye-catching prints and colorful designs I could make into clothes.

I remember wishing back then, "If ONLY Rifle would design FABRIC." That would be amazing and I could then proceed to make ALL the clothing of my dreams, obviously.

When RPC eventually released their first fabric line, I was delighted. Hallelujah! I can make my own Rifle clothes! The possibilities are endless! My clothing will be unique AND exactly the style I want it to be. Also, rayon everything!  This is THE BEST!

Birch Floral (Periwinkle)

I pre-ordered some Les Fleurs rayon as a birthday gift to myself and, once it showed up in the mail, I promptly tucked it away in my embarrassing fabric stash to await the perfect project. 

Somewhere along the way, before even cutting into the fabric, I started to feel less excited.

Over the past year or so, I found that clothing other bloggers and IG users made from the same, bold Rifle prints really started to feel boring and all the same to me, regardless of the actual style of the garment. Interesting details became invisible to me. The fabric appeared to be wearing the person, no garment even making a blip on my radar. It seemed like all I could see was Rifle fabric. Rifle, Rifle, Rifle, Rifle. 

Fast forward to present day. I now cringe as I scroll through Instagram (numerous times a day because I'm addicted). Rifle's latest (third? I've lost count) line of fabric is out and it feels like everyone's starting to use Rifle everything... yet again. (Also they offer Keds now, too?!) I can't escape it. It's like I'm suffocating in the pretty, painterly, detailed, perfect-color-combination, prints. It feels like too much. 

I didn't know that I could get sick of a style that seemed so well-suited to my own.

My beautiful periwinkle fabric is still siting in my stupid fabric stash and now I'm realizing I'm officially sick of all things Rifle Paper Co. I'm hoping to wait this out and fall back in love with my treasured cloth -- maybe next spring? 

I'm dismayed to admit I'm experiencing #RPCOverload and am totally burned out. How are you faring?

Finished Project: Carolyn Pajamas

Hi, friends! I'm marching right along (get it, it's March!) with sharing my backlog of yet-unblogged makes. Today, we have the Carolyn Pajamas by Closet Case Patterns. I bought this pattern right when it came out because I've always loved classic PJ sets like this, and had just been debating pulling the trigger on some at J.CREW. Nope! I can make those! So, I (finally) actually did.

The fabric is a huge bed sheet I got at Goodwill. It's 100% cotton and feels great. The print is some kind of painterly style tropical setting amid trees and flowers with ladies holding parasols, standing before scenic views, sitting on benches, and little girls chasing little dogs. I have a bunch left, so I'm thinking about making matching long PJ pants, too. And also maybe long sleeve/pants Christmas PJs? Yes.

As you can see, I made the short sleeved top and shorts version. The shorts have a faux fly, which I like the look of and was happy to have Heather's well-written instructions for, since I'd struggled with that when I'd attempted to tackle (then abandoned) a Big-4 pattern with one, some time back in my sewing career.

By the time I'd actually gotten around to sewing up this pattern (a year... or years?) after impulsively purchasing it, I was under a self-imposed deadline to complete it before I left on a girls' trip to New Orleans for one of my best friends' bachelorette trip/celebration back in September. In the interest of time, I opted to omit the piping at the sleeve and shorts cuffs, as well as at the collar and center fronts. I even went so far as to skip the buttons and just stitched the front closed at a place that felt right. I personally never unbutton PJ tops anyway, but pull them on over my head, like a little kid. Yes, I also sleep with the teddy bear pictured. Adults can do whatever we want!

I don't have any super special construction notes and I did not make any real changes to the pattern, apart from skipping a couple aesthetic steps. I did somehow manage to line things up so that there is a big palm tree centered above my bum (when I'm not twisted sideways like in the above photo) and on the back collar, too. OK by me!

I wore these PJs all fall and have just recently started pulling them out again on warmer nights as spring edges nearer. I will definitely be making another set, just a matter of time (which could be a while because I'm easily distracted by new/shiny). Next time, if I use this fabric or fabric of a similar weight, I'll likely skip the interfacing, as it makes things around the neckline a bit bulky when I'm tossing and turning in bed. I actually like the look of only piping the pocket, but I've always wanted PJs with classic coordinating piping at the collar and cuffs, so I'm sure I'll try that at some point. So many PJs possibilities, so little time.

eShakti Dress Review

Do you guys remember back in 2014, when I reviewed a dress for eShakti?

Well, they emailed me recently to see if I'd like to do it again and I said, sure! I thought it made sense to take another crack at it, since over the years my style has changed a little bit, leaning more towards the modern now than strictly vintage-obsessed, my size has gone up, and I could now take the opportunity to try out their customizing features, since I hadn't in my first review.

If you've not heard of eShakti, they are an online women's clothing retailer with a wide selection of designs on offer that the customer can then further customize to her preference. Oddly, the dress I picked to review (from a small range of pre-selected items) seems to no longer exist on their site, but I've cobbled together a bit of information I could find to tell you about it!

This little thumbnail shows the original style of the dress as designed, the Snowflake Beaded Poplin Dress. You can see it has cap sleeves, a slight scoop neckline, and the skirt is knee length.

It's winter here in Virginia, and, even though we don't get crazy arctic temps, I still knew I wanted actual sleeves of some sort. Plus I tend to like the way short sleeves look on me more than cap sleeves.

In selecting customizing options, I added short sleeves and went for an even more scooped front and back neckline. I kept the length at the knee, but could have gone longer or shorter with it, which is a nice feature! The site also takes into account your height in the customizing section.

The skirt is pleated with in-seam pockets and the bodice meets the skirt at a separate waistband, which I'm usually a fan of, but I think this kind of looked rumpled on me -- perhaps I could remedy this by taking in the waist a bit for a closer fit. The fabric was not something you could customize, so, I got their standard cotton poplin fabric that happens to be the same fabric that the first dress I reviewed for them was made from, too.

This is, sadly, what makes me not want to reach for this dress in my closet more often, though. The cotton poplin fabric is lightweight but a bit stiff and, in black, tends to attract lint and cat hair easily. It seems to constantly look a bit rumpled and disheveled rather than crisp, even on the parts of the dress that are more fitted. I really wish that the customization extended to the fabric type, even if it was limited to this simple cotton poplin and , say, cotton sateen, or something like that! I think a different fabric would have really elevated this dress.

The beading on the front is cute, but not over the top, and I appreciate that it feels a bit more modern in design -- it's not just polka dots or cutesy snowflakes.

Pockets!

I  styled it with polka dot tights and pointy-toe bow flats, which I felt took things in the quirky, retro direction, to go with the vintage-style neckline. You could just as easily style a dress like this with solid tights and a sleek heel for a different, more modern look. I will say the really nice thing about eShakti's dress offering is that there is something for virtually every style. They have categories broken out by occasion and aesthetic, and so many of their dresses have interesting details you just don't find at your local Banana Republic or other run of the mill shop. 

1 // 2 // 3 // 4

These are my favorites that I wish had been available for review! Though I don't love their cotton poplin, I'm so into the little scallops on that retro neckline and I think the lines of the dress (elastic shirred back waist and paneled--not pleated--skirt) would work much better with the poplin. I'm also interested to see what the cotton knit is like -- it looks great on that gold-spotted dress!

Back to my dress, I do really like the look of the scoop neckline on front and back as well as the raglan sleeves. And, any designer that knows the importance of pockets in dresses is good in my book! All in all, I may not be totally in love with the particular dress I received, but I do like the way my customization selections came out, and I would recommend eShakti for their wide range of interesting, customizable dress styles, though they do have other clothes (separates! jeans!), too.

If you're thinking of giving eShakti a try, go for it! You can get $25 off your first purchase just by registering on their site.

You can find eShakti on all of your favorite social media sites (facebook, instagram, twitter, pinterest), and check out other reviews from regular people like me by following their #eShakti and #realfashionforrealpeople hashtags.

Disclaimer: As also mentioned in my last eShakti review, I was provided with a free dress of my choosing, but was not otherwise compensated for this review. All delightfully insightful thoughts and opinions are mine.

Finished Project: Lemon Laurel

Attempting to document at least some of the backlog of completed sewing projects from the last few months! Today, we have a Collette Patterns Laurel dress in a bold lemon print.

The fabric is the same lightweight cotton sateen by Gertie for Joann's that I used for my Winslow Culottes.  If you follow me on IG, you know I looove this fabric. It's so soft and the colors are great. One thing I really appreciate about it is that what would normally be a very summery/springtimey print can work with more wintry wardrobe items, too, due to the black background! Please, fabric designers of the world, make more fun bright prints on dark backgrounds!!

I ended up deciding to throw my plan to use this remaining yardage to make a crop top to match my culottes (for a little play-set look) out the window, as I came to realie I would not actually wear something like that more than once in real life. I recall having the waistband get a bit stretched out during the construction process for my culottes in this fabric, but I just thought it was a one-off. Silly me. Though this sateen does not contain any stretch fibers, it does tend to stretch out a bit as you handle and work with it -- the more handling, the more stretching. By the time I'd finished sewing the neckline bias facing on this dress, the entire neckline had stretched out quite noticeably, causing it to ripple and not lay flat -- WHY didn't I stay-stitch beforehand?! A word to future Sue: stay-stitch necklines!!!!! Just do it.

Now, if you've read this blog for a while, you'll know how much I like the Laurel dress pattern. I've also sewn it as a dress and a top for friends, over the years, so I'd like to think I'm rather familiar with it! Because it has been a little while since making one of these for myself, I knew I'd need to cut a new, larger size, but I think I over-compensated for my larger measurements. It's hard to say, though, with the fabric stretching issue. Did I cut this out too big, or did it grow? The fit is not quite right.

Jump!

Teapot!

Talk about a quick, easy project turning into something oddly challenging! [Insert here: fabric joke on making lemonade from lemons - ha, ha, ha] As you can see, I even tried to take things up a notch in photographing it with some new poses!

But, even back to the construction, once I realized the neckline was stretched out and crazy-looking, I knew I needed to try something different. I took a deep breath, cut around the entire neckline to trim the bad part off, and then traced the remaining neckline curve to make my own facing pieces. If you'd asked me in advance if I knew how to do that or thought I ever would, I'd have said "no," but I found that having sewn my fair share of facings in my sewing career, it was not difficult to come up with how to draft my own. I ended up basically tracing the shape of the neckline, adding seam allowances at the shoulders, and extending the whole neckline shape down a couple inches. I used a sturdier black cotton broadcloth for the facing pieces to try to help stabilize things there. It pretty much worked, but I didn't quite make the facings long enough, so they like to flip up a little bit (yes, I under-stitched) even after stitching them down in the shoulder seam ditch. Womp womp.


The verdict is that I love this fabric but not as this dress. The shoulders don't seem to sit right and the adjusted scooped shape of the front and back neckline are a little odd after my re-facing. I'm not sure if the whole thing was able to stretch out enough during construction to make the entire dress too big (apart from the stretched neckline), or if I just need to go down a size. It can be tricky when you change sizes after having determined a TNT pattern at a size different than you are now! I was worried that anything smaller than this would not fit, but I think it ended up being a bit more of a sack -- or pillow case, as a friend noted when I wore it out in real life -- than the casually loose shift I'd envisioned.

I think, to be sure, I have to try it out again in a non-secretly-stretching fabric and see where that takes me!

Finished Project: Colorblocked Linden

Happy New Year! I have a little backlog of finished projects to share, but instead of picking up with them in order, I'll share the most recent one I completed, since it's fresh!

The Linden Sweatshirt pattern by Grainline Studio has been hanging out in my pattern stash for a while and this month I was finally inspired to sew it up as a Christmas gift for my sister. I'd toyed with making an Ogden Cami but kept dragging my feet until I realized it just didn't seem right. I'm sure you've seen other bloggers make the Linden as a gift, since it's pretty forgiving fit-wise and quick and satisfying to sew.

I grabbed two different pontes from my fabric stash. The black and white striped one is more stable and less stretchy than the lighter weight teal. I knew I wanted to use the stretchier teal for at least the neckband (otherwise I'd need to make the neckband longer to account for the lower stretch percentage of the striped ponte), and then opted to avoid extra side-seam stripe-matching by also using it for the back. The cuffs seemed a little small, so I figured they should go with the stretchier fabric, too. To avoid things getting too scrunchy and tight around the waist, I used a split-hem variation, with Jen's quick tutorial.  I prefer this look to a traditional sweatshirt hem anyway.

In reading through the pattern instructions, I could not, for the life of me, seem to find the seam allowance noted anywhere. I had a feeling it would be smaller than your traditional 5/8" since it's intended for knits. The only mention of the SA I found was in the "Sewing with Knits" section, under "Using a Serger" where it notes 1/4".  I used a sewing machine with a tiny zig-zag stitch for the entire thing, and a 1/4" SA. Also of note, in using Jen's tutorial for the split hem effect, follow her advice and make the back band significantly wider when you're cutting out (if you like that look where the back flap extends further down than the front). I only extended mine about half an inch, which turned out to be hardly noticeable once the thing was folded and sewn together.

Now that I've finally tried out this pattern, I'm looking forward to making one for myself! I have some classic (boring but soft!) grey french terry that I bought at Mood to copy Sallie way back when, and even got the matching ribbing. Hopefully I'll FINALLY get cracking on that soon. For now, here's a photo of my lovely sister modeling her Linden for us.

Finished Project: Testing The Acton Dress

Hi friends!

Today I'm here to share my tester version of the Acton dress from in the folds. Does she ever sew anything other than pattern testing?! YES! I hope to share my backlog of sewn projects soon -- there have been some glimpses on Insagram.

This was actually my second pattern testing experience, but the schedule included a break between our testing submissions and the formal release of the final pattern -- which seems rather reasonable when you think about the (supposed) purpose of pattern testing in the SBC. I wrote this post up back when everything was fresh in my mind from the experience, then returned to it and added in a few afterthoughts when the pattern was officially released. To see my thoughts on pattern testing in general, visit my earlier post, here.

For the test of the Acton dress, Emily was especially nice to work with because it was clear how much thought and care she'd put into her pattern, and also into the experience designed for her testers as we went through the process. She was friendly and communicative via email, and it was clear that she was truly grateful for and excited to have our help, respected us and our time, and she even created a private facebook group for us to share questions and ideas with her and each other. She was easygoing, and it did not feel like a process only intended to benefit her as the designer. All that, and, I also did not feel like she was 'sucking up' to us as her potential customers-turned-testers.

Regarding the pattern itself, the Acton dress pattern came as a layered PDF, so I was able to select only the size I wanted to print, which made for easier cutting when it came time to cut the pieces out. The princess-seamed bodice is the most fitted part, and ends a bit above the natural waist, so I went with my bust measurement to pick a size. All pages and pattern pieces were clearly labeled and easy to use, with markings matching up as they should, and the dress came together fairly quickly. This was not really a surprise, if you look at the pattern-making tutorials Emily has shared on her blog you can tell she knows what she's doing!

The fabric I used is a floral rayon challis I'd bought at JoAnn's a couple of years ago. Sometimes you can luck out there with surprisingly cute rayon, sometimes. This one seemed rather RTW to me, in a trendy Juniors Department way, hah! The bodice lining is an even lighter weight, sheer-ish, bright red rayon, also from JoAnn's, which you can see kind of trying to peek out in the back view below. I made View A in a Size E and skipped the in-seam pockets.  The only other adjustment I made was to take in the bodice side seams about a quarter of an inch each.

As a tester, I provided some feedback to Emily during the testing period, but it was only related to the instructions. The pattern itself was already in a great place and I didn't find I needed to suggest any changes to it. It turns out the only major change she's made since us testers got our hands on the pattern was to change the style of the visuals in the instructions from photos to illustrations (which I find are often more helpful, and able to provide more detail than an actual photo, so, yay!).

I had a fun time sewing the dress and I like that the style lines create something a little different than my usual vintage/midcentury-leaning look.





My favorite elements of making this dress were, oddly, the skinny straps and then inserting the invisible zipper (a must for this lightweight, flowy fabric). Past Sue would probably spit out her La Croix on the computer screen in shock reading that, but I found these normally pesky parts of the construction process to be quite satisfying (even though they did not go perfectly)! I recently got an invisible zipper foot for my sewing machine and it was really a game changer. That, and adding a thin strip of interfacing where I'd be inserting the zip, plus, first basting the zip in place (as Emily's instructions suggested) really made for a smoother process than the last invisible zipper I sewed (um, 3 years ago! can you tell I've been avoiding them?).

By that, I mean it was smoother until I realized I'd gotten a little overzealous with my zip stitching, and had accidentally stitched through the zipper teeth in a few places. Luckily, I just had to rip out those stitches (with my tiniest seam ripper and some tweezers) and sew back over the areas, carefully avoiding the teeth while staying as close to them as I could, rather than replacing the entire zipper (I'd initially thought I'd melted it with the iron when I couldn't zip it all the way up). Phew!

For next time, I might skip taking in the bodice seams and leave them alone, for a more relaxed fit, and also make the straps just sliiiightly longer. The straps come with extra length so it's entirely up to you how long you make them for your dress. You could probably even get really crazy and extend them several inches so you can criss-cross them, or even tie 'em into a halter.

* * *

I'm still (over almost 5 years later!) working on the whole posing for blog photos thing. Props (that I don't have to hold/actively do anything to), like trees and railings, help but sometimes there's just no hiding the poorly-timed awkward moves I find myself in. #dork

Finished Project: Testing The Winslow Culottes

A little while back, I posted some thoughts on pattern testing in general and I want to thank you guys for your interesting contributions to the discussion! (which had previously just been taking place in my head, ha!)

When I wrote that post, I'd tested two patterns, the second of which is undergoing final touches before the official release, but I'm excited to share the project as soon as I can. Shortly after my 'thoughts' post, I volunteered to test Helen's new Winslow Culottes pattern (available soon!), her first apparel pattern and my third tester experience.

It was not until very recently that I've taken culottes seriously. I'd always written them off as not for me and tended to find them either a little dowdy and boring or too minimal/modern for my taste, depending on the style. In the last couple of months, I've admired more cute, casual, and even sleek and more formal culotte styles popping up on Instagram and Pinterest. Then I saw Helen's sample pair on IG and finally became interested in trying the style for myself. When I was a kid, I was a huge fan of the skort (a skirt with secret shorts inside, or even a skirt front with shorts in the back -- wait, is that the clothing form of a mullet?!), and I think the culotte is the more polished, adult version for me. As soon as Helen posted a call for testers, I signed up and was lucky enough to get to take part!

Regarding the testing experience, I really felt good about the entire process. Helen was helpful, attentive, friendly, and enthusiastic throughout and it's clear that she put a lot of thought into making the instructions for her pattern as truly useful as possible. She set up the pattern as a layered PDF,  included a visual of what pages are needed for what views, and even listed out what sizes can skip certain pages when printing at home. I enjoyed the private Facebook group she set up for us testers, which allowed us to easily ask her and each other questions, catch things that needed to be corrected, and view each others' makes as we eagerly cranked out our tester versions.

Also of note is that we were given a reasonable amount of time to complete our test projects and submit feedback, so I don't think anyone felt rushed or stressed.

This was a fun pattern to test! Not just because the designer was delightful and I was excited to try a new-to-me style, but also because it was quick and uncomplicated to sew and fit. The pleats are so deep in the front and back that the only fitted part is at the waistline, which is also straightforward to adjust if you find it not quite fitting right.

What you're seeing here is my tester version. I chose View A, the "shorts" style, and found the length just right. I forged ahead making my test version as a wearable muslin, due to the simple style, and ended up with a very wearable garment. I'd toyed with making a matching crop top for a vintage playsuit look, but decided to put it off for now.

There are in-seam pockets, a single piece waistband, center back zip, and two inverted box pleats at front and back, which were simple to sew and provide a lot of subtle fullness to the hip and bum area. So, everything feels nice and flowy and not restrictive at all, which works beautifully with more fluid fabrics. Heavier fabrics and those with less drape cause the pleats to become rather pronounced and form a more structured look.

The fabric I used is Gertie's lemon print sateen from JoAnn's. I was delighted when I saw the fabric in person. It's a really vibrant print with rich colors that did not fade after washing (even the black background!), with a slight sheen to it, but it is not stiff! It's lightweight and soft and even has a nice drape to it, reminding me of polished cotton I've seen vintage clothes made in. It worked nicely for this project, and I think the only thing I'd have done differently with it would be to try to match the lemon print pattern across the crotch seam, and then just buy more of it because I think it's awesome fabric!

I think I'm sold on this style and can now call myself a culottes fan! Where do you stand? Have you bought or sewn culottes?

Make sure to check out Helen's Winslow Culottes pattern when it comes out later this month. I highly recommend it!

Thoughts on Pattern "Testing"

Let me start by stating the obvious: I love sewing patterns. Big 4, vintage, indie, free, printed paper, PDF -- all kinds. But, lately, I've been wondering: when it comes to smaller scale indie pattern companies...

What do you think about "pattern testing" as it exists in the sewing blogosphere?

I have a few thoughts that have been swirling around in my mind. I hope you don't mind if I share them candidly here.

My own direct experience is limited. I've helped "test" two sewing patterns so far (2nd tester project coming to the blog soon!), and the differing experiences I had, plus what I have read about from other sewers, have got me pondering the whole idea of bloggers as testers, in general.

There seem to be a lot more cooks in the kitchen. The whole online sewing community has exploded in recent years compared to what it used to be. As more (and more) indie pattern companies* have popped up and the number of sewers turning to blogging & social media has increased, now more bloggers seem to be testing indie patterns, too -- which used to just seem reserved for those more famous bloggers. At the risk of understating, I'd say that the more people there are now creating patterns and testing them, the wider variety of experiences (and professionalism) you'll have across the process.

*These aren't always full-fledged companies and can include bloggers simply dabbling in pattern drafting & design. Combine them with more established indie pattern companies and it can feel like everyone and their mother are peddling sewing patterns. I appreciate variety, but is it too much of a good thing??

Recently, I've taken note of some less than ideal pattern testing scenarios mentioned by other sewers online: strict/short time frames; over-the-top intense "applications" to even try to be a tester for some designers; the blurred line between "testing" as purely a marketing effort or something a bit more scientific; inadequate recognition for time and effort spent; the prevalence of uber positive reviews; the impression that it's only for the "cool kids," part of some elite sewing clique; etc.

With all that in mind, I know some of us in sewing blog land (and elsewhere on the internet) are simply not interested in being pattern "testers," but, for me (so far), I find I do appreciate being offered this opportunity to try out an independent designer's pattern in this way! I'm not anything close to a professional (I don't even like to think of it as "testing" -- that sounds too meticulous for an amateur like me) when it comes to testing and my reasons for engaging in the process are self-centered. Honestly, I volunteer because I like to get a first look at a pattern before it hits the market and a peek at what the designer is like in off-the-blog interactions; I like that participating presents me with the chance and challenge to sew something I might not have otherwise chosen for myself (of course I only test things I'm OK adding to my wardrobe); and, lastly, I like that: duh, I get a free** pattern.

**free, in the sense that I did not have to pay money for it outright, though I recognize my precious time and not-free materials invested as part of the process.

The post-test process is what I actually find the most exciting. The "tester roundups" that appear on the website of the designer once the pattern is released to the public leave me with mixed feelings, though. On the one hand, I really enjoy poring over the variety of iterations of the pattern and different sewers' takes and tweaks on the design. Sometimes a certain sewer's version of a pattern can really sell me on something I wasn't quite convinced was for me. The part about this "roundup" that rubs me the wrong way, though, is that some designers only include the best (however they choose to determine this) tester photos, leaving out those who don't make the cut for the aesthetic -or whatever- they're going for, and giving the impression to readers that those shown on the roundup were the only testers involved.

In a sea of sewers trying to get blog-famous, monetize their blogs, get book deals and other gigs, and rack up new followers, you can imagine how this is a bummer. If, like me, you're not trying to do any of those things (well, I guess I wouldn't say no to new followers?) and you're simply excited to participate in more sewing goodness, you can see how it would feel like a bummer and an insult. I say, in this case, if you're going to show any, you've got to show all in order to be fair to your testers and your readers & customers. Then, though, there are designers who don't share any tester versions, and all pre-release pattern testing is done discreetly, out of public view (and I presume by professional pattern testers? -- there is such a thing, right?) Should (and could?) smaller indies do this, too, or is the cross promotion between the tester and the pattern creator a good thing that should be preserved?

I'm finding myself grappling with the pluses and minuses of this whole process a little bit, and thinking about the two extremes that the whole endeavor seems to fall between: meticulous, technical testing of a pattern and then surface-level, fluffy marketing. I find the whole thing overall to be both fascinating and annoying! I like being a tester sometimes, and it's neat that this is an opportunity that's now available to more sewers than it's been in the past. Also, obviously, marketing your products helps sell them, which is the whole point, but what's the best way to do that while trying to consider everyone in this community? It can be annoying enough to induce eye-rolls when a tested pattern seems to take over your blogroll and a significant chunk of your favorite blogs are all overflowing with overwhelmingly gushy tester reviews.

At this point, I don't know what the answer is or if I'll ever be able to distill my opinion on it down into a single point -- is the current state of affairs when it comes to indie pattern testing good or bad or something else?

What do you think about it?

Jump in!

Finished Project: Vintage Simplicity 7683

This dress and I had a history before I even wore it. As soon as I saw this copy of the 1960s pattern sitting on a shelf at the antique shop, I was like YES. A few months after bringing it home (two years ago) I got to work sewing it up. I had found the perfect fabric at my local thrift store -- well, when I say fabric, I mean pillow cases. It was a set of huge, old, king-size pillow cases in the cutest pastel floral print. I'd been wanting to try sewing with bed linens for a while -- they're soft, come in fun prints, are easy to sew with, and the price is right. They can be super cheap when you can find used pieces in good condition at the thrift store!

This was my chance: great fabric + great pattern = great dress. Right?

A photo posted by Sue (@sue1656) on Jan 10, 2014 at 2:44pm PST

A photo posted by Sue (@sue1656) on Apr 25, 2014 at 11:36am PDT

I guess the answer is sometimes... or, maybe in due time? Either way, this one took a while. I'd cut all the pieces out, interfaced where needed, sewn the shoulder seams, attached the collar and neckline facings, started on the button placket, and then totally given up. It was one of those times when you read and re-read the instructions, then try to execute them but things are not matching up and you cannot figure out why. After an afternoon of that joyful experience every sewist is familiar with, I decided it was time to give it a rest. I just wasn't going to get it then and I needed to revisit it later. I didn't know that "later" would turn into two years.

While reorganizing my sewing space in a bout of pre-spring cleaning, I came across the poor unfinished object (UFO) in a drawer and decided it was time to take another look. It turns out I had sewn two edges of the button placket structure together that were meant to stay separate. Makes no sense unless you've sewn this pattern, but I think you get the idea that it was just one little mistake that was holding me back. Once I realized what I'd done, I carefully followed the instructions and finished up the dress.

I pulled matching lavender buttons from my stash. They were a bit smaller than recommended, so I spaced them out and added an extra one to the placket. They match the purple in the fabric perfectly! I forewent facings for the armholes and used bias tape to finish those. I'd thought I was being so smart when cutting out the fabric because I'd let the hem of the pillowcase be the hem of the dress. Once I tried it on, it was way too long, and the side seams were wonky because they should've been a little curved/angled (a-line shift skirt shape). I ended up chopping off all the pre-hemmed length and doing a tiny hem with more bias tape as a facing. Thank goodness I was able to make it so tiny because I managed to chop off a bit too much skirt length, and made this mini dress a super-mini.

I can live with the short length, and the fact that the dress is a little too small in other areas, too (since I cut it out so long ago, my measurements have changed). Now I'm just delighted to be able to remove it from my Fails list from this old post and am loving the final look. The fun fabric and buttons and cute collar make me happy every time I look at them!

I'm already dreaming up another version of this dress with some printed cotton from my fabric stash, next time I'll leave slightly smaller seam allowances to give myself a little extra room, since it's a single-size vintage pattern.

Finished Project: A Wearable BHL Elisalex Muslin

Here I am, sneaking around in the wearable muslin that has resulted from my Elisalex party dress journey, so far! I'll admit to having lost a bit of momentum when my sewing no longer had a deadline, since I skipped my company party to fly across the country and meet my new nephew! #soworthit. Now, spring is basically here and my mind is drifting off to summery sundresses and skirts, so, I've resigned myself to a slow, intermittent march on the sparkly party dress front.

That's good, because I'm not quite ready to slice into my real deal fabric just yet -- the sleeves came out weird and I'll need your help!

First, let's review. I tried to replicate the short sleeved view shown on the pattern illustration & photography, though the sleeve pattern piece was not actually made for that shorter sleeve length (BHL is fixing this). I took off a few inches from the half-sleeve length provided. I also perfected my princess seam construction technique -- not hard, but different than the weak approach I'd been trying on previous projects. I sewed the size that corresponded to my waist measurement, and did a full bust adjustment to get the chest to fit right. For the skirt, I took about 1/2" out of each side seam of the dramatic, curved hip shape, and shortened the skirt several inches (lost count), though I think it's still a bit too long. I finished the neckline, sleeve hems, and skirt hem with satin bias tape facings, and skipped adding a lining. I don't love invisible zippers, so I used a vintage regular zip in the center back.

I really like parts of this dress, but others I'm not so sure about. I love the fabric, and the front and back necklines -- actually the whole bodice (apart from the sleeves/shoulders). I like the idea of the skirt, but I'm now finding I'm just not sold on this exact shape. I'd initially been drawn to it, and I can't quite seem to come up with a better shape, so, perhaps an even more reduced hip curve would do the trick. I'm thinking that if I underline the skirt with organza, like SewHopeful did, the dramatic shape will sit more nicely and appear intentional instead of the weird vibe I'm getting now.

Here's where I need your help! as you can see in the photos, the armscye is weird. Wearing the dress, the armholes feel surprisingly tight, and the neckline slips off towards the edge of my shoulders, like the dress is trying to eject me at the shoulders. It feels too small and yet also like there's an excess of fabric all at the same time. My first idea is to make the armholes a bit bigger by adding a little to the side seams of the bodice/armhole pieces as well as the sleeves, to give me more room around the armpit and help the sleeve hang better -- but what about the shoulder? It feels sort of like I need to move the shoulder/sleeve cap seam back up onto my shoulder (somehow?!) and then, what? Would that end up moving excess fabric across the upper bodice toward the center back, and cause the back neckline to gape?

I've seen similar-looking sleeve/armpit fabric bunching in other versions of the sleeved Elisalex out in the SBC, and some bloggers note they've done a forward shoulder adjustment, and then also taken a chunk out of the back neckline. How do you know if you need a forward shoulder adjustment?

I suppose I could try this and just see what happens, but I'm skeptical! It just doesn't seem like this armhole shape wants sleeves. In the far right photo below, it looks like the sleeve cap is too voluminous for the armhole? Is that a totally separate issue? Oy!

I'm not quite sure, at this point. What do you guys think? I'm happy to wear this test version as is, but I'd hate to cut into my nicer, sparkly fabric before figuring this out. Perhaps giving it some more time and a revisit at a later date will help. Any comments, tips, or ideas you can offer are much appreciated!

Finished Project: Testing The Nita Wrap Skirt

Wait, this isn't an Elisalex dress or a men's shirt?!!

That's right, we've veered off plan a bit. Today I'm sharing my test version of the latest pattern offering from Beth of Sew DIY, the Nita Wrap Skirt. Surprise!

This is the first time I've helped a designer test a pattern, and I enjoyed the process. As there's a deadline, I'd be nervous to test something more complicated, but this beginner-friendly wrap skirt was great. As a selected tester, I got a PDF copy of the test version of the pattern for free, in exchange for my time and effort sewing it up and providing feedback. 

I appreciate Beth's design for this simple skirt. It's fitted at the waist and hips, but the wrap style offers more freedom of movement than a pencil skirt, which feels great, and the diagonal line of the wrap opening is sleek and interesting. It definitely fills a hole in my pattern library!

no explanation for this pose; it just felt right .

I sewed View A, the shortest option, in a straight size 14 and didn't need to grade between sizes. The finished skirt fit without any tweaks, another benefit of sewing an adjustable wrap skirt.

One of my favorite things about the skirt, other than its wardrobe workhorse potential, is that it provides a fun way to show off  bold prints or fabric colors that aren't necessarily flattering to your skin-tone (like mustard for me; so fun, but so ugly) -- attributes I'd previously relegated to sewing non-apparel, like throw pillows and bags. With bold prints in mind, I finally pounced on this black and white Cotton + Steel fern print I'd been eyeing since its release, and I really like the way it worked for this skirt. 

Just ignore the grey-ish tone, as it was a gloomy day and black fabric is notoriously annoying to photograph, so, these were all lightened a little.

The instructions are clear and straightforward, as you'd expect, and even break out separate steps for the lining. I did opt to go the lining route and used some dark purple-blue bemberg rayon from my stash. I tend to stock up on the stuff. It's pretty much the only type of lining I ever want to use; it feels wonderful but isn't as pricey as silk!

All in all, I would absolutely recommend this skirt as a quick, fun project for an experienced sewist, or as a great beginner project for a sewing newbie. It's my first time using one of Beth's patterns and her thoughtful design and instructions made this project a breeze. Next time I'm in need of a quick creative project, I might try the Nita Wrap Skirt in denim or eyelet. Can you tell I'm ready for Summer?