Sunday, May 22, 2016

Thoughts on Pattern "Testing"



Let me start by stating the obvious: I love sewing patterns. Big 4, vintage, indie, free, printed paper, PDF -- all kinds. But, lately, I've been wondering: when it comes to smaller scale indie pattern companies...

What do you think about "pattern testing" as it exists in the sewing blogosphere?

I have a few thoughts that have been swirling around in my mind. I hope you don't mind if I share them candidly here.

My own direct experience is limited. I've helped "test" two sewing patterns so far (2nd tester project coming to the blog soon!), and the differing experiences I had, plus what I have read about from other sewers, have got me pondering the whole idea of bloggers as testers, in general.

There seem to be a lot more cooks in the kitchen. The whole online sewing community has exploded in recent years compared to what it used to be. As more (and more) indie pattern companies* have popped up and the number of sewers turning to blogging & social media has increased, now more bloggers seem to be testing indie patterns, too -- which used to just seem reserved for those more famous bloggers. At the risk of understating, I'd say that the more people there are now creating patterns and testing them, the wider variety of experiences (and professionalism) you'll have across the process.

*These aren't always full-fledged companies and can include bloggers simply dabbling in pattern drafting & design. Combine them with more established indie pattern companies and it can feel like everyone and their mother are peddling sewing patterns. I appreciate variety, but is it too much of a good thing??

Recently, I've taken note of some less than ideal pattern testing scenarios mentioned by other sewers online: strict/short time frames; over-the-top intense "applications" to even try to be a tester for some designers; the blurred line between "testing" as purely a marketing effort or something a bit more scientific; inadequate recognition for time and effort spent; the prevalence of uber positive reviews; the impression that it's only for the "cool kids," part of some elite sewing clique; etc.

With all that in mind, I know some of us in sewing blog land (and elsewhere on the internet) are simply not interested in being pattern "testers," but, for me (so far), I find I do appreciate being offered this opportunity to try out an independent designer's pattern in this way! I'm not anything close to a professional (I don't even like to think of it as "testing" -- that sounds too meticulous for an amateur like me) when it comes to testing and my reasons for engaging in the process are self-centered. Honestly, I volunteer because I like to get a first look at a pattern before it hits the market and a peek at what the designer is like in off-the-blog interactions; I like that participating presents me with the chance and challenge to sew something I might not have otherwise chosen for myself (of course I only test things I'm OK adding to my wardrobe); and, lastly, I like that: duh, I get a free** pattern.

**free, in the sense that I did not have to pay money for it outright, though I recognize my precious time and not-free materials invested as part of the process.

The post-test process is what I actually find the most exciting. The "tester roundups" that appear on the website of the designer once the pattern is released to the public leave me with mixed feelings, though. On the one hand, I really enjoy poring over the variety of iterations of the pattern and different sewers' takes and tweaks on the design. Sometimes a certain sewer's version of a pattern can really sell me on something I wasn't quite convinced was for me. The part about this "roundup" that rubs me the wrong way, though, is that some designers only include the best (however they choose to determine this) tester photos, leaving out those who don't make the cut for the aesthetic -or whatever- they're going for, and giving the impression to readers that those shown on the roundup were the only testers involved.

In a sea of sewers trying to get blog-famous, monetize their blogs, get book deals and other gigs, and rack up new followers, you can imagine how this is a bummer. If, like me, you're not trying to do any of those things (well, I guess I wouldn't say no to new followers?) and you're simply excited to participate in more sewing goodness, you can see how it would feel like a bummer and an insult. I say, in this case, if you're going to show any, you've got to show all in order to be fair to your testers and your readers & customers. Then, though, there are designers who don't share any tester versions, and all pre-release pattern testing is done discreetly, out of public view (and I presume by professional pattern testers? -- there is such a thing, right?) Should (and could?) smaller indies do this, too, or is the cross promotion between the tester and the pattern creator a good thing that should be preserved?

I'm finding myself grappling with the pluses and minuses of this whole process a little bit, and thinking about the two extremes that the whole endeavor seems to fall between: meticulous, technical testing of a pattern and then surface-level, fluffy marketing. I find the whole thing overall to be both fascinating and annoying! I like being a tester sometimes, and it's neat that this is an opportunity that's now available to more sewers than it's been in the past. Also, obviously, marketing your products helps sell them, which is the whole point, but what's the best way to do that while trying to consider everyone in this community? It can be annoying enough to induce eye-rolls when a tested pattern seems to take over your blogroll and a significant chunk of your favorite blogs are all overflowing with overwhelmingly gushy tester reviews.

At this point, I don't know what the answer is or if I'll ever be able to distill my opinion on it down into a single point -- is the current state of affairs when it comes to indie pattern testing good or bad or something else?

What do you think about it?

Jump in!

24 comments:

  1. Sometimes it can just seem like a marketing ploy. And I get a wee irritated when the testers alter the pattern for style, not just fit. To me they aren't truly testing the pattern then. If they want to alter it for style, okay, but do that in the second version. It's also a bit irritating when they confess that they didn't read the directions because - again - where's the testing part? It sounds like they just got a free pattern and put it on the blog to promote it.

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    1. I agree; save the style changes for round 2! It makes me wonder how much some pattern designers really depend on the testing, or if it really is 100% promotional. I've seen evidence of both, so I suppose it's just a case by case thing. Thanks for weighing in!

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  2. What Donna said.

    I think that testing should more or less be behind the scenes. It should be quick and dirty. Muslin choosing your size per the pattern's size chart, following the instructions and reporting errors/glaring issues.

    Not that no one should ever get a wearable garment out of it. If you do -- great.

    But I know one designer who does testing (in the background) and then puts out a second call for the marketing aspect.

    I think that's a great idea. I see nothing wrong with getting the pattern in the hands of people who have decent amount of followers -- but call it what it is.

    I've tested a couple patterns. For one we had a private Facebook group and it was real time discussion and pattern adjustments. Everyone was making comments and the designer was adjusting as we went along. It was a good experience.

    I don't volunteer to test anymore but mostly because I find that when I have to sew on a deadline I get disinterested. :)

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    1. That IS a great idea; instead of one or the other, just do both a private and a public test.
      I appreciated having a facebook group like that, too.
      Sewing under a deadline gives me mixed feelings. Depending on how the project is going it either gets me excited and forces me to see it through, or stresses me out and makes me want to give up, haha.

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  3. I just did my first pattern test. Your comment about it being insanely hard to just get CHOSEN to test a pattern hit home with me - I have actually volunteered a few times and only been chosen the one time. In the instances where I was not chosen, once I saw who was testing, it did seem like the people with the blingiest blogs were the ones who got the opportunities. But my recent test was a good experience - there was a deadline but it was all done through a private FB group and the designer took our critiques/suggestions into account as she updated things.

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  4. I know what you mean, Masha!
    And, the FB group (Emily's? :)) is great, too.

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  5. I feel like there's sometimes confusion between pattern testing and pattern reviewing. To me those are totally different things and should be treated differently, with testing being something that's done to identify problems with the pattern or instructions during the development process and reviews being of a finished product. I don't do much pattern testing these days as I've found the deadlines that people want me to work with are too hard for me to fit into my schedule, but when I do, I generally just test with a muslin and give notes from that (although, now that I'm thinking about it, I can't think of the last pattern I tested... it's been a few years!). I accept review copies of patterns from time to time, and when I do, I try to follow the instructions exactly as written to give the most accurate review possible. I'm not sure if anyone finds reviews helpful or even not annoying, but I do look at them before buying a pattern (I usually do an image search for the pattern and look to see if multiple people have the same fit issue or something like that).

    Also, I think there are people doing things differently, but their processes aren't as visible and obvious as the tester roundup, so we don't know about it. I'm friends with a woman here in New York who designs children's patterns, and they're always tested by her colleagues in the Broadway costume shop where she works. I'm sure there are huge benefits to professional testers, but there are also benefits to using amateurs, especially since the majority of people who will buy the pattern are amateurs. It's an interesting topic, for sure!

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    1. Thanks, Sonja. You're right, they are two different things!
      I do like review posts (I do the same thing with google images), but I think some indies are rolling the test and review process into one thing, and just calling it pattern testing, which is confusing!

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  6. Sue, this has been the most interesting read on a sewing topic I've read in a while! I can definitely relate to how frustrating it is to have to apply to be chosen. It certainly feels like I am not part of this "elite" sewing club...and that is definitely not the reason why I started my blog! I saw how some bloggers were online friends and part of this really cool community, and yet things like what you've mentioned above make me feel like I'm back in high school. UGH.

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    1. Yeah! It can really seem to devolve into a blatant popularity contest sometimes.

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  7. I've tested bag patterns as well as children's clothing. Most designers are interested in honest feedback. I don't even have a blog, let alone a top blog so that obviously wasn't a consideration for them :-). I quite like testing patterns when I like the design and the pattern. I find the motivation to finish within the time range is good for me. I only had one bad experience with a badly drafted pattern. I have been very happy with the other things I made and some designers are very generous and will give you free PDFs of their other patterns as well. All in all, it has been a good experience for me.

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    1. Glad to hear it! I like the idea of designers offering other pdf patterns to their testers. Sounds like a win-win.

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  8. i agree with a lot of what you have said sue. there is (and should be) a distinction between pattern testing and promotion. pattern testing should not be about blogs and pictures. i think i know the "application" to be a tester that you mean and i was quite shocked. is giving your time, experience and fabric (at no cost to the designer) that much of a privilege? of course some of the larger cos give fabric but that is very much at the promotional end rather than pattern testing!

    i don't test any more although i have a few times in the past (i still would for a friend though if i liked the pattern). i don't want to spend my limited sewing time in making a pattern that isn't something i would buy. also the deadlines are often ridiculously tight which dont work for me. but while people are lining up to test I'm sure I'm not missed!

    for me, lack of honest negative reviews are an issue across the whole community. i saw a "tester review" of a pattern where the blogger raved about it, said how well drafted it was etc. it was a mess of draglines and clearly didn't fit well at all. that makes me think less of both the blogger and the pattern co.

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    1. Thanks! YES to your note about missing negative reviews. I think a lot of sewers online are still in the earlier stages of learning to sew well-fitted garments (myself included; fitting adjustments are often mind-boggling to me), and don't always recognize the drafting shortcomings in some patterns, or even their own errors in sewing/fitting. Those bloggers aside, there are also some people who you'd think would know better who gush about a pattern that just makes you go "what?"

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  9. Thanks for sharing your thoughts Sue. I really enjoyed reading it! As well as the comments... I have been thinking about writing something about pattern testing lately too (for obvious reasons), but haven't managed to find the time. I think this may be shove I need to do it! Always good to have a conversation and question whether or not things can be done better. As a designer I think it's really important that testers feel appreciated and like they are really contributing to the creation of a pattern and that it's not a marketing ploy (well for me at least). Emily

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    1. Thanks, Emily! I really appreciate your thoughtful approach. For what it's worth, you're one of the designers who seems to do things the right way. I would love to read about your thoughts on the whole process, from a designer's perspective!

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  10. You raise some excellent issues about pattern testing. I've only tested one pattern. I decided to apply because I knew it would be easy to sew and I could do it by the deadline. I was asked to give feedback on the pattern as well as corrections to instructions, and to not say anything negative because it was not the final version. We were allowed to post photos in advance of the pattern release if we wanted to. The designer asked for photos, which I did send. I posted photos on my blog but didn't review the pattern because it was not the final version. I've also had the experience of applying to be a tester and not being selected.

    Private testing seems like a good way to approach it. Perhaps one reason why there is an overwhelming number of positive reviews is that you can't properly review a test pattern because it's not the final version. Thus people say positive things about it. But if you are testing, you really shouldn't be reviewing the early version. Ginger Makes is correct about needing a clear distinction between testing and reviewing.

    I like the idea of two levels - private testing and then when the pattern has been corrected, a promotional/public level where people make the final version and provide an honest review of it. Or here's a thought - pay your pattern testers. :)

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  11. Wow! I think I agree with everything you say! I've just started my sewing blog after a few failed attempts - mainly I gave up because I felt silly writing something that wouldn't get read, 'talking' to no-one. But the thing is, when I see a pattern I like, or a sewing book I'm interested in, I want to get other people's opinions. And with loads of blogs around, some of them sponsored, I'm not sure the reviews are always honest! I mean, someone gives you a free book in exchange for a review: is the review really unbiased or do you feel so grateful you overlook some of the flaws? So I thought I'd start my own blog on the off chance some people might be looking for a review of the patterns I'm making.
    As for pattern testings, they should be a real test. There should be several testings across the process: you can't get things right from the start, the feedback should be used to improve the pattern. It shouldn't be part of the advertising and "launch". I haven't tested anything yet. I might do, because I am genuinely interested in the planning and helping improve things, and I get really cross when a pattern is released and there are all sorts of things wrong with it and you read that people have all made the same alterations!

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    1. Thanks for sharing, Charlotte!! You should give testing a try and see what you think. We'd all benefit from another honest reviewer to add to the ranks!

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  12. My pet peeve in reviews is when someone says a pattern is great even after describing having made major alterations to the pattern in order to make it work. Not the normal altering to fit ones particular body, but a basic fix to an awkwardly angled armscye needed in order to construct a wearable garment. A blogger I follow wrote about how she had to fix this and how bad it was yet at the end still gave the pattern a thumbs up. No! If a sewer without her extensive pattern drafting experience can not fix the pattern themselves then this pattern should not get a great grade, right?

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  13. I volunteered for a pattern company who frankly needs all the help they can get! They wanted blog stats and examples of garments I've made and a whole load of other hoops to jump through.

    Sod that, I thought, I just wanted to help out, their patterns and instructions are pretty bad despite what they (and their fangurls think)

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  14. I read this blog after reading your culottes pattern testing post. Wow, I didn't know how much went into it! It can seem a great glossy thing to do at first, but I guess it depends who you work with and whether they see it as a marketing ploy or genuinely want their patters tested by people. I didn't realise you could have such strict deadlines and the pattern maker being so picky with who they pick or what tester pictures they put on their website. I didn't realise you'd practically have to give the a whole CV of what you've done to test them either! Such a great interesting article, thanks so much for all the info! XxxX

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